Trim and discard both ends of the eggplants. Preparing one at a time, cut lengthwise slice about 3/8 inch thick and lay the eggplant flat side down, then cut into long slices 1/3 inch thick. Lay the slices in a single layer on 2 cookie sheets, brush both sides with 6 tablespoons of the olive oil, and roast until tender but not mushy, about 20 minutes, turning them once midway. If they brown somewhat, all the better.

Meanwhile, place the ricotta in a small bowl, season with salt and pepper to taste, and set aside.

Remove the eggplant when it is done, but leave the oven on.

Holding each tomato with the stem end facing your palm, grate enough tomatoes on the large perforations of a box-type grater to measure 2 cups pulp (This is a handy technique; you'll see as you grate that the tomato flattens out, and its skin protects your hand). Discard the skin.

Place the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil in a medium saucepan set over low heat, and when hot, cook the garlic, stirring, for about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and oregano, increase the heat to medium, and cook the sauce, stirring occasionally, until thickened and reduced to about 1 1/3 cups -- 10 to 15 minutes. Season generously with salt and pepper.

Combine the Romano cheese and bread crumbs in a small bowl and stir in the butter until the mixture looks like moist, coarse sand. Spread about 3 tablespoons of the tomato sauce over the bottom of a shallow, 1 1/2 quart oven-proof casserole. Lay one-third of the eggplant over the sauce (it won't completely cover), season with salt and pepper, top with half of the ricotta, spreading it to cover as best possible. Cover the ricotta with half of the remaining tomato sauce, followed by half of the mozzarella. Add another layer of eggplant and repeat the process with the remaining cheeses and sauce. Add the final layer of eggplant (which may not completely cover). Spread the crumb mixture as evenly as possible over the top and bake on the top rack until golden brown and bubbling -- about 20 minutes.

Do-ahead Options:

• The eggplant can be roasted and the sauce prepared up to 2 days ahead.
• The crumbs can be seasoned up to 3 days in advance.
• Assemble the dish up to 6 hours ahead and let it come almost to room temperature before sprinkling it with crumbs and baking it.